
ποΈ Kazbegi, Georgia β One Day or Two Days?
Mount Kazbegi is one of the most iconic peaks in Eastern Georgia, standing just south of the Russian border. Towering above the surrounding landscape, itβs home to the famous Gergeti Trinity Church, often described as the "closest church to heaven." Perched at 2,170 meters above sea level, this 14th-century church is not only a masterpiece of medieval architecture but also a symbol of Georgiaβs resilient spirit.
π How to Get to KazbegiIf you're short on time but still want to experience the magic of Kazbegi, a guided day trip from Tbilisi is your most convenient and efficient option. Not only will you have a knowledgeable local guide, but you'll also stop at several must-see attractions along the way β all in one action-packed day.
We joined a one-day group tour departing from central Tbilisi, which included stops at:
- Jinvali Water Reservoir
- Ananuri Fortified Castle Ensemble
- Russian-Georgian Friendship Monument
- Gergeti Trinity Church (via 4WD transfer)
The tour cost us around $25β$40, and the optional 4WD ride up to the Trinity Church was 20 GEL (about $6) per person.
πΈ On a Budget?If you're feeling adventurous and want to travel on a tighter budget, marshrutkas (shared minivans) are a great alternative. They cost only 15 GEL per person and depart from Tbilisiβs Didube Bus Station about 11 times a day. The ride takes 3β4 hours.
We took a marshrutka on another trip to Uplistsikhe, and although finding the right one was a challenge due to the language barrier and the chaotic station environment, asking around did help β even if people didnβt look particularly approachable at first.
β Must-Do Activities in Kazbegi π£οΈ On the Way to KazbegiAlthough the weather wasnβt on our side β cold and rainy β the scenic drive through the Georgian Military Highway was still memorable.
Our first stop was the Jinvali Water Reservoir, a stunning artificial lake built during the Soviet era in the 1980s. It continues to supply essential water to Tbilisi to this day. On a clear day, this spot is perfect for dreamy landscape photos.
Next was the Ananuri Fortified Castle Ensemble, once home to the Dukes of Aragvi. Dating back to the 13th century, the castle sits on the edge of the reservoir, offering panoramic views. In better weather, the area is popular for camping and water activities.
After lunch, we headed to one of the highlights of the journey: the Russian-Georgian Friendship Monument. Built in 1983 to celebrate relations between the two countries, it now stands as a somewhat ironic but visually striking reminder of a complex history. When we arrived, the entire area was blanketed in fog. But when the mist briefly lifted, it revealed a hauntingly beautiful view and the towering mosaic monument.
Through conversations with locals and even observing street art and newspapers, I sensed a lingering tension and deep emotional scars from past conflicts with Russia β a silent but palpable undercurrent in todayβs Georgia.
βͺ Stepantsminda and the Gergeti Trinity ChurchAbout 30 minutes past the monument, we reached Stepantsminda, the main town in the Kazbegi region. Most tours include an optional 4WD transfer (20 GEL) to the hilltop where the Gergeti Trinity Church is located β a real time-saver if you're on a tight schedule. Since it was already around 5 PM, our tour was rushed at this point. Instead, we chose to stay overnight in Kazbegi, which turned out to be a great decision.
ποΈ Top Places to Stay in KazbegiThe most popular and convenient area is Spantsminda village where you can find budget accommodation such as guest houses and luxury hotels and have various types of cafes, restaurants, and supermarkets. I will never forget the speechless view of the mountains, hitting by the sun rising in the morning, while having a wonderful breakfast.
Hiking to the Church
If you enjoy hiking and have some time, I highly recommend walking to the church instead of taking the car. The trail offers stunning views of the Caucasus Mountains and takes about 1.5 to 2 hours round trip. The church itself, built in the 14th century, has served many roles over time. During the Persian invasions of the 18th century, it was used to protect people and treasures, and in the Soviet era, it was shut down until religious services resumed in the 1990s under the Georgian Orthodox Church.
Today, the church is one of Georgiaβs most iconic landmarks, offering a peaceful spiritual experience and jaw-dropping panoramic views.
π Getting Back to Tbilisi
After exploring the church and walking back down to Stepantsminda (about 40 minutes), we found a taxi pool heading back to Tbilisi. Marshrutkas depart frequently β roughly every hour β though keep in mind they donβt leave until full. The fare is still 15 GEL, and unlike the guided tour, they donβt make any stops along the way. The ride took just under 2 hours.
π€ Soβ¦ One Day or Two Days?If you're short on time and want to see the highlights without hassle, a guided day tour is perfect. But if you want to soak in the mountain air, hike to the church at your own pace, and enjoy the quiet charm of Stepantsminda, staying one night is absolutely worth it. Iβm glad we did β it made our Kazbegi experience much more relaxed and memorable.